Thanks again for all your advice. Why isn't the developer organising all of the electrics? Hi, The developer has been very strict from the beginning not allowing any modifications to the plan and not allowing us access until completion. I spoke to the developer today and was told that they have finished the walls and are about to paint They wouldn't even allow me access to just take photos of the walls to see where other cables were. Therefore I now need to workout the neatest way to get CAT6 and Coax to all rooms in the house and then extend the tv power to the two mounted TV's.
Hi, Thanks for the response, I have a picture of the developer logo on my dart board So you say that metal stud walls may not have noggins?
If this is the case then this should make upstairs installation a lot easier. Has anyone had experience passing cables under the floor boards of the first level? Is there any pitfalls there? The reason I ask is that I also need to install speaker cable into the lounge and therefore need to drop cable from above.
My final question: is it possible to cable through a cavity wall in a new build? I suspect not but it's worth a question Basically my last resort for this installation is to go outside and back in or to start digging channels in the plaster. Thanks, Gary. Thanks ColJack, great info. I was pretty sure using the cavity was a no no And I agree running the cables outside is pretty stupid as well as very ugly on a new house. I had to laugh the other day when I saw a new build that had a sky install that had just thrown the satellite cables over the roof!
So when I eventually get in I should be able to investigate the accessibility. You mentioned that I would have to cut into the boards on the first floor. Is there any advice you can offer when doing this as I am almost certainly going to have to do this for the speaker cable. Have you got any advice on digging the channels into the plaster if this is what I am left with? How do I fill them back and finish them to make it look like new?
Well thats the complicated bit. The speaker cable will need to go up the study wall and into bedroom 3 above then through the flooring in bedroom 3 and bedroom 2 into the 5 speaker points front left, front right, back right, back left and back centre. The other cat6 cables will need to go from the study in the bottom left corder of the house to all over the house: 3 cat6 to each bed room 12 cables , 2 cat6 to the lounge, 2 cat6 to the dinning room and 2 cat6 to the kitchen.
I'm also going to place a few extra cat6 cables in the loft and under the stairs for expandability. Then on top of this I will have a freeview aerial in the loft going into a 6 x distribution amp and a satellite with quad LNB providing 4 inputs into the loft. I intend to then run two freeview and two satellite feeds to the study where the AV equipment it and then provide 1 coax feed to each bedroom 4 , the lounge, the kitchen and the dining room I was planning to have the cables terminated into the loft so that I could switch them between the different inputs depending on what we needed.
I was originally thinking of creating a spur from another lounge socket and creating a double socket behind the TV or just expanding the TV's and receivers power cables. So as you can see this is a huge DIY project. Skilled person. Instructed person. Photo Credit To Elecsa. Previous : Requirements for Marinas and Similar Locations.
Emergency lighting: is BS effective enough? Carvell Group 12 January, Can you afford to ignore harmonics? Chauvin Arnoux 11 January, Although it's rarely a problem in an accessible basement or attic, if your home is built over a crawlspace or has a low, narrow attic, it can be hard to find the hole you've drilled in the wall plate.
Start by inserting a long wire through the hole you just drilled a disassembled wire coat hanger works well. Enter the attic or crawlspace, and look for the wire extending through the drilled hole.
When you find the hole in the wall plate, remove the wire, uncoil the end of an electrician's fish tape , and insert it through the drilled hole in the wall plate. Extend the blade of the fish tape until it is visible in the wall box opening—ideally, you want the end of the fish tape to extend out through the hole you cut in the drywall.
This, and subsequent steps, will be easiest if you have a helper at the other end to retrieve the fish tape through the wall opening as it extends into the wall cavity. A short length of clothes-hanger wire can sometimes make it easier to hook the fish tape and extract it through the wall opening. After the blade of the fish tape has been retrieved through the wall opening, uncoil enough NM cable to complete the cable run you are planning.
Make sure to allow about 2 feet of excess cable at each end. Stretch out the cable and untwist any kinks in it. Strip about 6 inches of outer sheathing from one end of the cable, then hook the conducting wires and bare copper grounding wire through the loop at the end of the fish tape blade.
Bend the wires over, and wrap several loops of electrical tape around the wires and the end of the fish tape. The goal is to have a smooth head that will easily slide through the hole in the wall plate without getting caught.
From the attic or basement, pull steadily on the fish tape while a helper feeds the cable into the wall opening. It may take some finessing as the tip of the fish tape blade passes through the drilled hole in the wall plate.
Be gentle as you fish the cable through the hole since it is important not to tear the sheathing on the cable. It helps to pull in short, 2- to 3-foot intervals, so that the cable is being pulled at the same time your helper is feeding from the other end.
When fishing cable to a switch location, you may run into fire blocks—horizontal lengths of framing that block the stud cavity. This may become evident only when you are attempting to run the fish tape through the cavity. In this case, you have no choice but to find another route or cut an access hole into the drywall in order to drill through the fire block to run the cable.
Run the free end of the cable to the next stud cavity location. Make sure to use approved attachment methods—drilling holes through joists or stapling the cable where required. Strip the end of the sheathing, attach the wires to the fish tape, and tape them in place. Then, pull the cable through the wall plate and out the next wall box opening. Make sure that someone holds the opposite end of the cable securely while you fish it to the next location to avoid pulling the cable into the wall where you can't reach it.
You have now completed one cable run. Professional electricians often use a lube product to coat the cable as it's being pulled through wall plates. The cable lube makes the cable slippery and reduces the likelihood of tearing the sheathing as it passes through the drilled hole.
It also reduces the effort required to pull the cable. You could also use a string and a small weight to fish the wire. Get a Quote. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads.
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