With the main sheeted to leeward, the leeward shroud will be loose. Move the shroud down a couple of holes on the adjuster, but not all the way down.
Replace clevis pin and ring. Loosen mainsheet. Turn the boat so the wind is coming from the opposite side. Ease the traveler out to what is now the lee side and sheet in. The new leeward shroud will be loose. Move the shroud down to the corresponding hole in the adjuster as the first shroud. If the rig is still loose, move the shroud down one or two more holes and repeat with the other side until the rig is fairly tight and both shrouds are in the same hole on the adjuster.
It is possible to over-tighten the rig which will make the mast hard to rotate. When you take the boat apart, be sure to loosen one side only before taking the main down.
By leaving one shroud in the correct hole, you will only have to tighten one side next time you go sailing. If you are not happy with the mast rake you have, simply lengthen or shorten the forestay turnbuckle. Be sure to leave at least 10 complete threads into each side of the barrel. Be careful not to pull the sails in too tight. If the main is oversheeted too tight , the mainsail will be too flat and the boat will not move very fast. If the jib is oversheeted it will stop the air flowing between the leech of the jib and the mainsail.
This gap slot between the jib leech and the mainsail should be about 12 inches near the top of the jib. The jib tell-tale on the leeward and windward sides should be streaming back. If the windward tell-tale on the jib is flopping forward you should head the boat downwind a little. If the leeward tell-tale is flopping forward, you should head the boat into the wind a little, or if you do not want to head up any further, let the sail out a little.
Reaching The main traveler should be set a few inches from center with the main sheet snug and the jib sheet slightly looser than used when going to weather. This will allow the distance between the main and the jib to increase. Both sails should be sheeted in so that both the leeward and windward telltales are streaming back. Downwind Let the main traveler all the way out to the end of the crossbar and sheet the main loosely.
Do not let the main out far enough to rub against the shrouds if at all possible. Trim the jib sheet loosely trying to keep the windward and leeward tell-tales streaming back. If your boat is equipped with a barber hauler, see Section V - Tuning for Performance for instructions regarding its use. Downhaul Systems The luff of both the main and jib should be pulled down tightly to pull all the wrinkles out when sailing.
You have to be quite strong to overdownhaul the mainsail, so give it a hard pull. You can easily overtighten the jib downhaul, so just pull hard enough to get wrinkles. Notice the diagonal wrinkles in the luff of both the main and jib. Both sails should be downhauled until they disappear. Lace back and forth loosely and tie a half hitch at the top outside grommets.
Put the harness on. It should be slightly loose. Most people find a tightly laced harness uncomfortable. Slip the webbing over your head. Feed the lines through the webbing grommet from the backside, then feed one through each backside of top grommet near hook. Tie ends together using an overhand knot. Do not use a square knot. The webbing over your shoulders should fit tightly.
The tighter it is the more it will support your back and shoulders. Before hooking up, pull the dog bone down and see if it will reach the trampoline. The lowest ring should almost reach the outside edge of the trampoline. If it does not, adjust the length using the height adjuster. Sit on the side of the hull just forward of the shroud. Pull the dog bone down and hook the uppermost ring onto the harness hook.
Lean back until you are being supported by the trapeze wire. Hold the jib sheet in your back hand. Bring your forward leg out, put foot on rail. Slowly straighten your legs out, keeping your feet two feet apart. Lean back! Do not hold onto the handle as you could unhook yourself. When trapezing on a reach, move your weight back on the hull to keep the bows up.
There are two basic wind conditions that will affect the way you launch: Onshore - wind blowing from the water towards the land Offshore - wind blowing from the land towards the water Before leaving the beach, make sure that the rudders are up all the way, the main traveler is out all the way, both sheets are loose and the hiking stick is on the windward side of the boat.
Onshore Push the boat off at a 45 to 60 degree angle to the wind until it floats, jump on and sheet in the jib only tight. Do not sheet in the main yet. This will pull you out at a good angle until you can safely drop your rudders. As soon as water is deep enough, drop and lock both rudders, bring traveler to center and sheet in main. This method can be used when very light offshore winds are blowing. Otherwise use the following method. Offshore Look to make sure it is totally clear where you will be backing.
Walk boat out backwards until it is floating. Give boat a big shove and jump onto the bows. Keeping the transoms out of the 26 water, have the crew hold jib clew out as far forward as necessary to fill jib with air and keep boat moving backwards.
Keeping the transoms out of the water will keep the boat moving straight out. When you are far out enough usually about feet let the jib go, move to the proper sailing positions, drop rudders down, sheet in both sails and go.
Do not attempt to tack while sailing on a reach. Make a smooth turn to windward using about one half the amount of rudder throw. Turning the rudders too sharply will stall the boat and bring it to an abrupt stop. When the bows are pointing into the wind, release the main sheet 1 or 2 feet. Leave the jib cleated. The skipper should now move aft, into the center, and swing the hiking stick to the new side. Do not straighten the rudders out. Leave the jib cleated until the boat is on its new heading.
It helps pull the bows around until your tack is completed. While the crew is sheeting in the jib, the skipper should be sheeting in the main and moving to the proper position on the wind- 27 ward side of the boat.
Tack is now completed. While sitting on the weather hull, uncleat the main and push the boom to leeward. Backwind the jib and push the tiller away from you. This reverses the rudders and allows the boat to sail back - wards. Leave them reversed until the bows are pointed in the direction of a close reach. Release the jib, straighten the rudders and sheet both sails in quickly.
To do so, first check new direction to be sure it is clear of other boats. Swing the hiking stick to the opposite side, placing the end aft of the rear beam and forward of the tiller arm.
Keep the rudders turned by holding onto the tiller crossbar. Have your crew bring the jib to the new side. Move to the side of the boat and pick up the hiking stick. Note how the transom is almost under water and the bows are very high. Bows are too low and transoms are too high out of the water. Trim fore and aft here is good, but there is too much weight on one side for the light air. Move the crew to the middle or leeward side. When balance is proper, the leeward bow will be between 6 and 12 inches out of the water and the weather hull will just touch the water.
The idea is to sink the leeward hull deep into the water, thereby using the hull to reduce side slippage. Install a righting line according to instructions in Section I - Assembly. The boat will lose speed as it raises up on one hull and usually flips over slowly. Sit down on the flat surface of the hull. It is important to get off the top hull quickly to prevent the boat from turning upside down turtle.
Do not jump off the boat as current and wind may not allow you to return to it. The skipper should uncleat the main while the crew uncleats the jib. The crew should reach around the front crossbar for the righting line and throw it over the top hull.
Make sure the bows are pointing into the wind. If the mast is pointed into the wind, the boat may flip over in the other direction as you try to right it. To swing bows around into the wind, walk back towards the transom slowly until bows are positioned properly.
Standing even with the front crossbar, the skipper and crew should grab the righting line and lean backwards. Knots in the line help keep your hands from slipping. If you are single-hand- 30 ing your boat, carry your jib bag on board. Grab onto the righting line, scoop up a bag of water and hold it over your shoulder while leaning back.
This extra weight should allow you to right the boat. An alternative method is to tie a loop in the end of the righting line and attach the loop to your trapeze harness hook for more leverage. Once the tip of the mast comes out of the water, the boat will right quickly. Be sure to hold onto the righting line until you can grab the boat and pull yourself up. The boat will now be pointing directly into the wind and moving slowly if at all. Stow the righting line back in the pouch and you are sailing again!
Lock the lower metal stop on the halyard wire into the halyard lock on the mast. The sail should now be about 4 feet short of being fully hoisted. Downhaul the luff using the ring in the reef patches. Attach the outhaul car to the aft ring. Starting with the bottom batten, roll the extra sail up and tie with two 2 foot pieces of line using the reef points grommets in the sail. Do now tie around boom. Reefed sail on a Prindle You do not need to loosen the other shroud.
Leave it in the proper sailing position and you will know where to place the loosened shroud the next time you go sailing. Lowering the sails Point your bows into the wind. Uncleat the main downhaul and disconnect the boom from the mainsail. To lower the jib, uncleat the jib downhaul. Rehook the jib halyards together with brummel hooks. NOTE: If the jib does not lock or unlock the first time, try again. Pull down slowly to lock and quickly to unlock.
Lower the jib and tie the jib halyard at the base of the mast. Use the downhaul cleat for this purpose. Pull the lines tight to keep them from flapping while trailering. Leave zipper open with the zipper car at the head of the sail. If it is allowed to go to the bottom, it may fall off. Loosening the rig Before you lower your sails, you must loosen the rig tension using the mainsheet and traveler method explained in Section I - Assembly.
With the wind coming from the bow at a 45 degree angle, travel the main all the way out to the leeward corner. With the crew sitting on the trampoline, sheet the main in tight. The lee shroud should become loose. Fold the jib in half and start rolling from the Move the shroud up to the second to the top middle. If it is windy, put the jib under the hiking strap to keep it from blowing away while you lower the main.
To lower the main on the Prindle 15 and 18 , hoist the mainsail up as far as possible and rotate mast away from sail to unhook main halyard. This rotation should be towards the side of the mast that the hook is riveted onto. The object to turn the headboard and ring away from the hook enabling the sail to be lowered past the hook.
NOTE: The best way to do this is to have one person pull the sail up and rotate the mast using the rotator wishbone while some - one else pulls the clew of the mainsail in the opposite direction than the mast is rotated.
The person hoisting the sail lets the halyard go and pulls down on the tack while keeping the mast rotated. Once the sail has dropped a couple of inches below the hook, let the clew and rotator go and drop the sail. NOTE: Be sure to have a knot tied in the end of the halyard to keep it from going inside the mast. After the main is down, attach the twist shackle to the rotator bar and pull the main halyard firmly and tie off.
To lower the main on the Prindle 16, hoist the mainsail up as far as possible and it should release from the halyard lock. Let the sail drop. After the main is down, store the shackle in the curf on the mast, pull firmly on the main halyard and wrap the line around the mast 32 below the shrouds 3 or 4 times.
Cleat off using the main halyard cleat. Roll the main starting with the second or third batten from the top. Roll smoothly and tightly. Stop when you get to the next to the last bottom batten. Insert the rolled jib and continue rolling. Wrap and tie downhaul line around rolled sails. Place sails in long mainsail bag. Your jib bag can now be used to carry other miscellaneous items. We strongly recommend that you store your sails in this manner rather than folding them as they will last much longer.
Unfasten the lower main block from the traveler car and the traveler line. Tie the outhaul line tail to the lower main block shackle and coil the excess mainsheet. This keep everything from becoming tangled in storage. Trailering Place the boat on the trailer.
Remove the rudder blades from castings. Be sure they are marked port or starboard so you don not have to retune them the next time you go sailing. Attach mast hinge to the mast. With one person on the trampoline, push the mast forward and disconnect the forestay shackle. DO NOT undo the turnbuckle. Rig shackle so it holds the two bow bridle wires together. Check in back of boat to make sure you will not be lowering the mast onto a person, car, or power line.
A mast near a 33 wire could be fatal! The second person should move to the back to catch the mast as it is lowered. While the second person holds the mast, remove the hinge pin and walk the mast forward until you can place it in the front mast 34 support on the trailer. Store hinge in down position. Place the top of the mast in the rear mast support making sure the mast does not extend beyond the rudder castings.
Trailer the Prindle 15 and 18 with curf up to prevent damage to rear support padding and mast. The bouncing will put excess shock loads on the spreader assembly. Secure the mast and support to the boat by wrapping the tie down line around the mast twice and down through the trampoline grommets. Store the tiller under a hiking strap or jib lead line to keep it from flapping around.
Tie a 3 or 4 foot piece of line to the traveler pad eye, around the tiller crossbar twice, and through the fairlead and cleat. This will keep the rudder castings from swinging. Tie the front end of the mast down making sure to wrap line twice here also.
There are several ways to store your rigging while trailering. Here are two popular methods. Bring all shroud and trapeze wires forward to the front support and tie the line around them.
Lace the forestay through the back lace lines 2 or 3 times. Store trapeze dogbones under trampoline to keep them from banging around. You may wish to tie the wires up off the front crossbar to keep them from rubbing on a long trip with a line over the mast.
Remove both hatch covers and feed shrouds and trapeze wires into each hull. Store forestay as in method 1. With any method you use, the important thing is to keep all rigging separate and tangle-free. Store the jib sheet by tying or shackling the jib clew blocks to the bow bridle shackle. Store the extra line in the halyard pouch or loop around hiking straps.
This MUST be kept snug at all times with no play between the vertical rod and the bar. Think of the dolphin striker as the backbone of your boat.
To test the snugness of your dolphin striker, grab the aluminum bar between the side and the rod, push up and then pull down. To tighten the rod, first loosen the nylon mast bearing halfround ball on top of mast step.
Loosen screw at bottom of striker rod. Turn dolphin striker rod clockwise using a wrench and the flat spot on the rod designed for this purpose until the bar is snug again. Retighten the nylon ball and screw. The bolts that connect the striker bar to the front crossbar should be loosened occasionally to check for cracks in the crossbar. If cracks are apparent, the crossbar should be replaced. There is a back-up plate inside the crossbar so these bolts can be tightened easily from the outside.
Again, do not overtighten, since the bolts could snap. These are virtually unbreakable but do require some attention. Make sure that battens are inserted all the way into the batten pocket with tapered end inside the stop at the luff of the sail.
If it is not, the batten may tear the sail. You may wish to trim them to this length. This relieves pressure on the sail and battens and will preserve the life of both. These battens are much softer and more fragile requiring more care. Occasionally, a delamination may occur at the tapered end where the foam narrows towards the tip. To repair, spread the glass and foam apart slightly and coat with 5minute epoxy, clamp tip together, and let harden.
This repair should be stronger than new. Take care when rolling a sail with foam battens. If the sail is rolled unevenly and battens are allowed to twist they will hold the twist.
This may hamper your sail shape. You can however, remove this twist by removing the batten from the sail and twisting it in the opposite direction and holding it for a moment or two. The batten should spring back fairly straight. This is very important as most of the strain on the boat is concentrated on these bolts. Tighten where necessary. Do not over tighten. Hulls Check for leaks at all hull fittings by covering these areas with detergent and blowing air from your lungs into drain plug hole.
If detergent bubbles, there is a leak. Remove fitting and cover area with clear silicone sealant and replace. Rudders Rub paraffin on the inside of casting where blade slides to ease operation. To fine tune: remove uppermost bolt on casting and paraffin. If there is slack between sheaves add a washer on nut end of bolt. Insert and tighten. This will help keep lines of sheaves. Remove bolt which holds top of spring and rub with paraffin.
If rudders do not kick up easily: pull spring to loosen tension and replace bolt. Paraffin lock pin. Pull the dog bone down and hook the uppermost ring onto the harness hook. Lean back until you are being supported by the trapeze wire. Hold the jib sheet in your back hand. Bring your forward leg out, put foot on rail. Now … Performance Catamarans Prindle Note how the transom is almost under water and the bows are very high.
Bows are too low and transoms are too high out of the water. Trim fore and aft here is good, but there is too much weight on one side for the light air.
Move the crew to the middle or leeward side. When balance is proper, the leeward bow will be between 6 and 12 inches out of the water and the weather hull will just touch the water. The idea is to sink … Loosen screw at bottom of striker rod. Turn dolphin striker rod clock- wise using a wrench and the flat spot on the rod designed for this purpose until the bar is snug again.
Retighten the nylon ball and screw. The bolts that connect the striker bar to the front crossbar should be loos- ened occasionally to check for cracks in the crossbar. If cracks are appar- ent, the crossbar should be replaced. There is a back-up plate inside the crossbar so these bolts can be tightened easily from the outside.
Again, do not overtighten, since the bolts could snap. Wrap and tie downhaul line around rolled sails. Place sails in long mainsail bag. Your jib bag can now be used to carry other miscella- neous items. We strongly recommend that you store your sails in this manner rather than folding them as they will last much longer. Unfasten the lower main block from the trav- eler car and the traveler line.
Tie the out- haul line tail to the lower main block shackle and coil the excess mainsheet. This keep everything from becoming tangled in stor- age. Trailering Place the boat on the trailer. Tie … Remove cotter key and pintle from casting. Line up casting with gudgeons on transom and reinsert pintle through gudgeons and casting. Performance Catamarans Prindle Finish tying string with a square knot and tuck loose ends into batten pocket.
Finished tie on fiberglass batten. Hoisting the mainsail Face your boat into the wind when raising or lowering your sails. Lay the mainsail to the batten ends will not get caught on the tiller crossbar. NOTE: The halyard should follow the curf of the mast and not wrap around the hook at the mast- head. Attach the twisted shackle to the head of the mainsail and place forward edge of sail into curf of mast.
With one hand, feed the sail into the curf and pull on ro … Tiller extension should be able to touch tram- poline easily. If it does not, the tiller crossbar has been installed backwards. Place rudder blade between casting with lock pin forward. Replace lock nut and tighten … Performance Catamarans Prindle Slide the sides down each side of the trampo- line track.
Two people are needed here. Slide the rear piece and zip the two pieces together. Center the trampoline in the front. Prindle Attach main hal- yard shackle into hole at head of mainsail. Place forward edge of sail into curf of mast. With one hand, feed the curf and pull on rope tail of halyard with the other. Pull from directly for- ward of mast and not off to either side. This helps to prevent hal- yard from jump- ing out of mast head sheaves. When the sail reaches the top of mast, you must secure the second metal stop on the halyard wire into the halyard lock on the mast.
DO this by leading wire between teeth … Performance Catamarans Prindle Hulls Check for leaks at all hull fittings by covering these areas with detergent and blowing air from your lungs into drain plug hole. If detergent bubbles, there is a leak. Remove fitting and cover area with clear sili- cone sealant and replace. Rudders Rub paraffin on the inside of casting where blade slides to ease operation. To fine tune: remove uppermost bolt on casting and paraf- fin.
If there is slack between sheaves add a washer on nut end … Keeping the transoms out of the water will keep the boat moving straight out. When you are far out enough usually about feet let the jib go, move to the proper sailing positions, drop rudders down, sheet in both sails and go. Do not attempt to ta … Performance Catamarans Prindle Lead the shockcord through both loops in the lines around jib shackles and tie shockcord together.
Slide the knot into the sock to hide from view. One side of 4-way system completed. Entire 4-way system completed. Tie the small jib clew blocks to each end of the line using a small bowline. Thread through small jib clew blocks, through cleat of jib block, across trampoline and through opposite jib block in opposite direc … Attach the outhaul car to the aft ring.
Starting with the bottom batten, roll the extra sail up and tie with two 2 foot pieces of line using the reef points grommets in the sail. Do now tie around boom. Reefed sail on a Prindle With the wind coming from the bow at a 45 degree angle, travel the main all th … Note: there will be an aluminum cleat on the deck just forward on the jib track, this is for future addition of the 4-way jib system as is the "sock" on the trampoline. If the jib cars have installed padeyes remove them since they will not be used.
Attach jib adjuster plate to both sides. Attach jib crosswire to adjuster plate, leading wire throu … 8.
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